The Interplay Of Humidity Air Conditioner, And Heater

The term humidity refers to the vaporized water existent in the air surrounding us. We commonly hear of relative humidity i.e. the percentage of water vapor measured in the air at a specific temperature. Absolute humidity is the total mass of water vapor in particular volume of air at a given time. It is a well-understood fact that warm air can hold greater quantity of water vapor than cold air. Since air conditioner and heater both alter the air temperature, the humidity level indoors changes significantly with their use.

Humidity Levels And Comfort

The relative humidity level for comfortable condition of the human body is between 20 and 60 percent. For home environment an average 35 to 40 percent relative humidity is optimum given an outside temperature of 20?F or more. But during winter, water vapors on windows and inside of walls occur, raising the humidity level inside. This may cause damage to the structures. In such a case, you need to adjust both your air conditioner and heater to lower degrees. The air conditioner lowers the temperature, which induces condensation on the inner sides of windowpanes. A heater, on the other hand, speeds up the process of evaporation from moisture contained in household items. However, running a patio heater in times of higher humidity inside can counter the problem to some degrees. With air conditioner and heater units, using a humidifier is the best option.

The most obvious signs of discomfort caused by low humidity levels indoors are dry nose and throat, itching, dryness of skin and hair, and irritation of the respiratory tract. To increase the humidity level, instead of an air conditioner and heater, you can use a humidifier. The increase can be brought about in three ways. First, by evaporating more water inside. Here you can use your heater to speed up the process. Take care not to set the heating level too high or you can possibly harm both your health and the indoor plants. The second way is to let air circulate through your room from a wet pad or by discharging a very fine mist of water into your room. For this, you have to add water manually on a regular basis until the desired level of comfort is attained. The third method employs direct introduction of moisture into the room, by means of a furnace.

While using air conditioner and heater for regulating temperature indoor, always use a humidity control unit so as to prevent the levels of humidity from going too high or too low and cause possible health problems as well as structural damage.

Read about Tangopang and his articles at http://www.guidetoheaters.com . Click here More On Electric Hot Water Heater

Understanding Your Air Conditioner

So many people have them in their homes, but few people truly understand the basics behind their air conditioning units. They know enough to switch them on and set the temperature at the level they desire, but really know little about the parts that make the unit cool their house down. An air conditioner regulates the heat and cold in your house by controlling the humidity and temperature in each room, but do you know how it does this? Whether you are shopping for a new air conditioner or interested in learning about the one you have, the best place to start is with the general terms used to explain the functions of your unit.

BTU: A BTU or British Thermal Unit is the world wide measurement for energy. In layman?s terms it is the amount of heat that is needed to raise a pound of water by one degree of temperature. When you hear someone talk about BTUs in regards to air conditioning they are talking about the amount of heat a unit can remove from a standard sized room. The higher the BTU rating the bigger, more expensive, and heavier the air conditioner is. While many people think that bigger is better, when it comes to air conditioning that is not always the case. It is more important to correctly match the size of a room with the required amount of BTUs. Having too many or too few for the room?s size decreases efficiency and actually hinders the unit from doing its job.

Chassis: The chassis is simply the guts of your air conditioner. It is the frame and working parts exclude from the body of your unit. Smaller units often have a fixed chassis which is easiest to remove for winterizing. Larger units often have a slide out chassis that makes repair work a snap.

EER: The EER is simply calculated by dividing the BTUs into the number of watts. Air conditioners with higher EER numbers should be the most efficient. While a unit with a higher EER number will save you money in the long run, it will cost more to buy. If you don?t live in a really hot area, it might not be worth it to invest in a unit with an EER over 10.

Fan: The fan in an air conditioner works like every other fan you have ever seen. Its sole job is to move the air. When it comes to air conditioners an adjustable thermostat combined with an adjustable speed fan makes the unit very efficient. In an air conditioning unit, you want to look for louvers that not only adjust up and down, but right and left as well.

Filter: Air is surprisingly dirty and a good filter will make a big difference in the quality of the air you breathe. Clean air is also a must if you want to get the most efficient work from your air conditioner. Because clean air is so important to the operation and maintenance of your unit, it is important to change or clean your filters regularly. Because you will be dealing with the filter on a regular basis, it is a good idea to own an air conditioner that has an easily accessible filter.

Thermostat: A thermostat is simply a device used to regulate temperature. Thermostats are heat sensing and therefore able to adjust the output of your air conditioner based on the level of heat in a room. You can get thermostats that are manual or programmable, depending on your needs. If you can get an adjustable thermostat and a variable speed fan, your air conditioning unit will be very efficient.

Once you have a small understanding of how an air conditioning unit not only works, but works most efficiently and effectively, it is a lot easier to find a unit that fits your unique household needs and understand the most efficient ways to run it.

James brown writes about Home Tips and House Appliances

Air Conditioners - How to Cut Running Costs in Half

In today's world, most people have invested in one form of an air conditioner or another. We have either window air conditioners in our homes or central air conditioners. They keep us cool in the extreme summer heat without fail; however, have you ever set back and looked at the costs of running an air conditioner? When compared to the common household fan the amount of electricity required to run an air conditioner is phenomenal.

When using an air conditioner there are many different factors that can directly affect the cost of running it. These factors include the geographical location of your home, where you live and the amount of work the air conditioner has to do greatly influence the cost. If you live in an area that has mild summers and extremely cold winters, obviously your air conditioner will not have to work as hard. However, if you live in an area, that has warm winters and boiling summers the air conditioner will have to work double time to maintain comfort.

The difference in weather conditions from year to year will affect the costs as well. This is basically geared towards the difference in costs per year. One summer might be cooler than the next, which will lead to a greater bill.

The efficiency rating of your air conditioner plays an important role in the amount of electricity used. Most all appliances in today's world are rated, when you purchase an air conditioner it will have a tag telling you the amount of electricity that appliance uses. Look for air conditioners that use minimal electricity, which will save you money each year. If you have a model that is 10 years or older, it is definitely time to consider a new one.

Another important factor is the size of the air conditioner versus the house-cooling load. All air conditioners come in different sizes, and each will state the amount of space it is designed to cool. For example, an apartment could do with just one or two window air conditioners, while a three-bedroom house could not. Closely consider the amount of space you need to cool when considering an air conditioner. While larger air conditioners will cost more money, it will typically save you money in the long run on usage.

The setting on your thermostat greatly effects the cost. A higher setting will result in the air conditioner running less, while lowering the setting will cause it to run more often. One electric company suggests keeping the thermostat above 78 degrees. This can save you 10 to 20% on cooling costs.

Finally, the local cost of electricity influences the general cost of running your air conditioner. This is something you have no control over, however, you can control your own cost by saving energy.

Here is a general look at the difference of running an air conditioner vs. running a Ceiling or oscillating fan, at medium speed.

Running a central air conditioner that is three ton (and of average efficiency) for 8 hours per day for 15 days per month, with the average rate per kWh (kilowatt per hour) being 0.17, the average cost per month for the air conditioner alone will be $97.92. Amazing isn't it? This does not even include washer, dryer, lights, refrigerator, or stove, only the air conditioner.

On the other hand, running a ceiling fan or oscillating fan at medium speed, for 8 hours per day, for a full 30 days, at an average rate per kWh of 0.035 is only $1.43. With this comparison you could run 68 ? fans for a full month before you would reach the cost of the central air conditioning unit.

There are many other things you can do to lower you electric bill. Things such as, inspect, clean, or replace your air conditioner filters monthly. When you are not in your home, raise the temperature on your thermostat, keeping in mind pets when you do. Lower the temperature of your water heater to 120 degrees, wash only full loads in your dishwasher or clothes washer, and use the energy saving cycle on the dryer.

Other steps you can take include, replacing incandescent bulbs with fluorescent lamps, this could save up to 75% on lighting costs. You should also caulk all windows, doors, and pipes to prevent air leaks in or out, use weather stripping around windows, doors and pipes as well. Have your ducts tested for air leaks; leaking ducts can reduce the efficiency of your air conditioner by up to 20%.

Ethan K. Roberts writes on a variety of topics not limited to air conditioners. Also available are more articles on room air conditioners and air conditioner rental.

How to Get your Air Conditioner ready for Next years Heat

Jack Frost is nipping at our nose and Santa Clause has just left. The eastern seaboard has just received their third blizzard for a total of over 125 cm (56 inches) of snow in one week. So, who in their right mind would be thinking about window air conditioners at this time of year?

Call me crazy, but I am.

It is a good time of year to start this project. Firstly, it keeps ones mind sharp for the coming spring. Plus, it allows you to try out those new tools you got for Christmas. Mainly though, it is a good winter project because by the time spring arrives you will be too busy to think about this job.

Very little is required to clean a window air conditioner, except lots of patience. If patience is something you lack then it is a job you should turn over to the local appliance serviceman.

Tools ----------------------
Tin can or container (old muffin tin works well also)
Vacuum cleaner
Long handled brush (an old toilet brush works well)
Oil can
Rags
De-greaser or spray detergent
Selection of screwdrivers (Philips, Flat bladed, 1/4" socket head)
Fin tool (optional)
New filter (if disposable type)

Lets get started -----------

1. Start by removing the filter from the front grille. If it is a disposable type simply replace it with a new one. Other types are made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean a reusable type lay it flat in the sink and sprinkle surface with laundry detergent. Then cover with about one inch of hot water. Just enough so the filter is submerged. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and rinse with warm water. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.

2. Next, remove the front grille from the main body of the air conditioner. They usually pivot on 2 spring clips at the bottom. It is usually removed by pulling the grille gently forward while pushing it down at the same time. If there is resistance then look for hidden screws. Look near the top edge of the grille or behind the control knob door. Once removed place the grille aside until later.
3. Carefully remove metal cover of air conditioner to expose inner workings. Once all the screws are removed lift the cover straight up. Do not let it hit the other parts as it can have sharp edges. This is where the old can comes in handy (ice cube container or muffin tin works well also). Use it to keep track of all the screws you will be removing. An air conditioner will often use a number of different types and sizes of screws. Segregate them from each other or confusion will result when we start reassembly.

4. Check the fan motor for any oil holes or oil plugs. If the motor has oil plugs they are usually rubber. Use caution when removing because the rubber may have become brittle. Often they will break off in the oil holes resulting in a blockage. If this occurs try to remove the broken plug by using a pin of the tip of a small screwdriver.
Once the fan motor oil holes are exposed add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body. Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is sufficient.
The natural tendency is to over-oil. Too much lubrication is as bad as not enough. Therefore only 3 or 4 drops on both ends of the motor body is sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each drop. If you add it too quickly over-lubrication will result.

5. Use the brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the evaporator (front fins). Use only an up and down motion. Do not go side to side or allow the fins to be bent over. The fins are very soft aluminum and can be damaged easily.
Once surface dirt is removed, spray with de-greaser or cleaner. There is a good product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name implies it is meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil cleaning. If this is not available the Fantastic Spray cleaner used in kitchens and bathrooms works quite well.
Let stand about 15 minutes or as per instructions on de-greaser can. This will allow cleaner to loosen any hidden dirt. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly pouring warm water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any electrical connections or components that may be near the coil. As an added precaution cover the motor with one of the cloth rags. to protect it from the water.
Do not use any form of high pressure air or water because this can drive dirt farther into fins. Also, use extreme caution as these coils are filled with high pressure refrigerant.

6. Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin comb then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening the fins will increase the efficiency of the air flow through the coils. This adds to the overall cooling effect produced by the air conditioner.

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the condenser (rear fins) coil. A plastic cowling usually surrounds the condenser fins. If so, check the top edge to see if it will lift or open. If it opens this will allow easier access to the condenser fins. Again use caution because the condenser coil is also filled with high pressure refrigerant.

8. Wipe any dirt buildup from both fan blades using a soft rag. Do not bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.

9. Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly. Do not forget to vacuum underside of metal air conditioner cover. If the cover contains air holes clean them thoroughly. If necessary use a damp rag.

10. Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry for few hours.

When completely dry plug in air conditioner and test operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble.

Once reassembly is complete, retest operation to ensure replacing the cover has not affected anything. Adding the cover will tend to twist the frame and can cause interior parts to move out of alignment. This can cause the fan to become noisy. To correct for this problem remove the cover and realign to the main body of the air conditioner. Reinstall the cover and test for noises every time 2 or 3 additional screws are added to the cover.

Finally, cover air conditioner with plastic wrap or an old blanket. Store in a warm dry area. Raise it from floor slightly by placing onto a couple of pieces of wood. This will protect the floor from the metal edges of the air conditioner, and also protect the air conditioner from moisture.

Youre Finished ------------

Repeat this simple procedure every year. If you do, the machine will be ready for many more years of dependable service.

Addendum -------------------

The filter inside the front grille should be removed and cleaned (as in step 1) every month throughout the cooling season. If you are a smoker it should be cleaned every week.

Although the above procedure is for a window air conditioner, the same basic method is used to clean a central air system. Due to additional dangers inherent in the central air conditioner systems, they should be cleaned only by a professional service company.


Jack Frost is nipping at our nose and Santa Clause has just left. The eastern seaboard has just received their third blizzard for a total of over 125 cm (56 inches) of snow in one week. So, who in their right mind would be thinking about window air conditioners at this time of year?

Call me crazy, but I am.

It is a good time of year to start this project. Firstly, it keeps ones mind sharp for the coming spring. Plus, it allows you to try out those new tools you got for Christmas. Mainly though, it is a good winter project because by the time spring arrives you will be too busy to think about this job.

Very little is required to clean a window air conditioner, except lots of patience. If patience is something you lack then it is a job you should turn over to the local appliance serviceman.

Tools ----------------------
Tin can or container (old muffin tin works well also)
Vacuum cleaner
Long handled brush (an old toilet brush works well)
Oil can
Rags
De-greaser or spray detergent
Selection of screwdrivers (Philips, Flat bladed, 1/4" socket head)
Fin tool (optional)
New filter (if disposable type)

Lets get started -----------

1. Start by removing the filter from the front grille. If it is a disposable type simply replace it with a new one. Other types are made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean a reusable type lay it flat in the sink and sprinkle surface with laundry detergent. Then cover with about one inch of hot water. Just enough so the filter is submerged. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and rinse with warm water. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.

2. Next, remove the front grille from the main body of the air conditioner. They usually pivot on 2 spring clips at the bottom. It is usually removed by pulling the grille gently forward while pushing it down at the same time. If there is resistance then look for hidden screws. Look near the top edge of the grille or behind the control knob door. Once removed place the grille aside until later.
3. Carefully remove metal cover of air conditioner to expose inner workings. Once all the screws are removed lift the cover straight up. Do not let it hit the other parts as it can have sharp edges. This is where the old can comes in handy (ice cube container or muffin tin works well also). Use it to keep track of all the screws you will be removing. An air conditioner will often use a number of different types and sizes of screws. Segregate them from each other or confusion will result when we start reassembly.

4. Check the fan motor for any oil holes or oil plugs. If the motor has oil plugs they are usually rubber. Use caution when removing because the rubber may have become brittle. Often they will break off in the oil holes resulting in a blockage. If this occurs try to remove the broken plug by using a pin of the tip of a small screwdriver.
Once the fan motor oil holes are exposed add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body. Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is sufficient.
The natural tendency is to over-oil. Too much lubrication is as bad as not enough. Therefore only 3 or 4 drops on both ends of the motor body is sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each drop. If you add it too quickly over-lubrication will result.

5. Use the brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the evaporator (front fins). Use only an up and down motion. Do not go side to side or allow the fins to be bent over. The fins are very soft aluminum and can be damaged easily.
Once surface dirt is removed, spray with de-greaser or cleaner. There is a good product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name implies it is meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil cleaning. If this is not available the Fantastic Spray cleaner used in kitchens and bathrooms works quite well.
Let stand about 15 minutes or as per instructions on de-greaser can. This will allow cleaner to loosen any hidden dirt. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly pouring warm water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any electrical connections or components that may be near the coil. As an added precaution cover the motor with one of the cloth rags. to protect it from the water.
Do not use any form of high pressure air or water because this can drive dirt farther into fins. Also, use extreme caution as these coils are filled with high pressure refrigerant.

6. Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin comb then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening the fins will increase the efficiency of the air flow through the coils. This adds to the overall cooling effect produced by the air conditioner.

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the condenser (rear fins) coil. A plastic cowling usually surrounds the condenser fins. If so, check the top edge to see if it will lift or open. If it opens this will allow easier access to the condenser fins. Again use caution because the condenser coil is also filled with high pressure refrigerant.

8. Wipe any dirt buildup from both fan blades using a soft rag. Do not bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.

9. Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly. Do not forget to vacuum underside of metal air conditioner cover. If the cover contains air holes clean them thoroughly. If necessary use a damp rag.

10. Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry for few hours.

When completely dry plug in air conditioner and test operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble.

Once reassembly is complete, retest operation to ensure replacing the cover has not affected anything. Adding the cover will tend to twist the frame and can cause interior parts to move out of alignment. This can cause the fan to become noisy. To correct for this problem remove the cover and realign to the main body of the air conditioner. Reinstall the cover and test for noises every time 2 or 3 additional screws are added to the cover.

Finally, cover air conditioner with plastic wrap or an old blanket. Store in a warm dry area. Raise it from floor slightly by placing onto a couple of pieces of wood. This will protect the floor from the metal edges of the air conditioner, and also protect the air conditioner from moisture.

Youre Finished ------------

Repeat this simple procedure every year. If you do, the machine will be ready for many more years of dependable service.

Addendum -------------------

The filter inside the front grille should be removed and cleaned (as in step 1) every month throughout the cooling season. If you are a smoker it should be cleaned every week.

Although the above procedure is for a window air conditioner, the same basic method is used to clean a central air system. Due to additional dangers inherent in the central air conditioner systems, they should be cleaned only by a professional service company.
Donald Grummett is an appliance service manager in Ottawa, Canada. In the trade over 30 years as both a technician, business owner, and technical trainer. For more information about appliances including FAQ, Stain guide, Recycling, and Newsletter visit http://www.mgservices.ca

HVAC Training

With strengthening modern technology, HVAC training is more necessary today than ever! While many will train for a career in HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) while on the job, more and more employers are now searching for graduates who have successfully completed their post secondary HVAC training to fill the ever-increasing demand for skilled technicians.

In an HVAC training program, students commonly learn to read blueprints; they also learn about safety issues, tools of the trade, designs, equipment construction, electronics, and the installation, maintenance and repair of heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems as well as heating and refrigeration systems. Additional coursework may include applied physics, chemistry, computer applications, electronics, and mechanical drawing.

A suitable HVAC training program is usually administered at a vocational or trade school, but there are some online HVAC schools, as well. Students are taught how to troubleshoot, repair and maintain heating, ventilation and air conditioning mechanisms and entire systems. Future HVAC technicians may evaluate settings and adjust system controls, test equipment, install fuel or water lines, and install air ducts, pumps, vent systems and other associated parts. In addition, prospective technicians learn how to connect electrical wiring and other components necessary for optimum HVAC operation.

Students who complete in HVAC training may earn a certificate or college credits. Furthermore, those who have fulfilled requirements for becoming an HVAC technician can expect a promising career outlook as the projected rate of available jobs is increasing more rapidly than many other occupations. While earnings vary, the top ten percent of HVAC technicians make more than $27 per hour.

If you would like to learn more about HVAC Training and HVAC Schools, you can find more in-depth information and resources on our website.

DISCLAIMER: Above is a GENERAL OVERVIEW and may or may not reflect specific practices, courses and/or services associated with ANY ONE particular school(s) that is or is not advertised on SchoolsGalore.com.

Michael Bustamante is a staff writer for Media Positive Communications, Inc. in association with SchoolsGalore.com. Find HVAC Schools, Colleges, Universities, Vocational Schools, and Online Schools at SchoolsGalore.com, your educational resource to locate schools.